Thormask – Take me pontooning get me drunk and enjoy the show beer shirt

 I learned these facts from Oregon-​based vinegar maker Kirsten Shockey on Zoom while I noisily pureed Cortland apples into a slurry and stirred a jar full of old wine. I had an early copy of Shockey’s upcoming book, Homebrewed Vinegar, a fold of cheesecloth, and several jars at my side. I’d swept everything else to a corner of my kitchen—my kimchi crock, my eight unopened sourdough books—to make room for this next big microbiological obsession.

You can’t ignore that vinegar is having a moment. New York City–based Pineapple Collaborative’s The ACV, a cider vinegar made from heirloom-variety apples, is so popular it has sold out four times. Brightland’s champagne vinegar, in a pert, beautiful bottle, would be at home on boutique shelves beside scented candles. Tart Vinegar, by Brooklyn-based Chris Crawford, has put celery vinegar on the condiment map. Acid League’s six-month-old line of living vinegars (tagline “Gastronomy with Gut”) made their way into Whole Foods within a month of launch. The phenomenon is coast to coast. There’s Supreme, Keepwell, and Native in Pennsylvania; American Vinegar Works in Massachusetts; Lindera Farms in Virginia; MadHouse in Ohio; Yesfolk in New York; and Blackberry Farm in Tennessee. If you expand the list, as you should, to include shrubs—vinegar-based cordials—the number and variety of sour fermented libations astonishes. Many are sold for cooking or drinking. Their makers are young, environmentally savvy, concerned with biodiversity and upcycling excess harvests and food scraps. The vinegars are raw and living, with strands of sediment and “mother” (a cellulose layer comprising yeast and acetobacter) still paddling around inside them. They come in flavors like kombu, knotweed, banana, basil, and Montmorency cherry.

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